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More places outside of Girona to visit. Once you've seen everything in Girona it's time to head out of the city. You don't have to go too far to discover some of these places below.
Caldes de Malavella
Translated it means 'water's of the bad witch' and roughly S. E. of Girona past the airport, its a nice town with some Roman ruins and its own spa hotel and famous for it's mineral waters eg. Vichy Catalan is one brand, a sparkling water bottled at sorce-very nice! It also has a train station and the Catalunya Express stops en route to Barcelona. www.caldesdemalavella.com
L'Estartit
The first thing you see when approaching this beach resort is it's 13th C castle high above Estartit. Best known for it's long, wide beach and reasonably shallow water, perfect for families with young kids, and with a huge, free parking area you can park very close to the beachfront. This really is one of the widest and longest beaches around. Charming, whitewashed centre which comes to life in the summer evenings with shoppers and diners. Hoardes of foreign invaders during Summer!
Be sure to visit the Isles Medes, just off the coast, glass bottom boat trips depart from Estartit to these protected seven islands which also attract scuba divers. I've also been told that Estartit has a car-boot sale on every other Saturday. www.estartit.org
Torroella de Montgri
Just five kilometers inland from Estartit and worth spending some time in it's old narrow streets within the old town quarter. There are plenty of little squares and courtyards, small shops, cafes and restaurants dotted around. Walking around on one hot, July evening it reminded me a bit of Banyoles old town. The place seems to have grown since my first visit several years ago as a tourist, with many more new, modern developments on the fringes of Torroella. www.torroella.org
I noticed a small 4 star, swanky hotel in town which has just 8 rooms called the Palau Lo Mirador www.palaulomirador.com
During the summer it hosts an annual classical music festival, with many concert dates that span July and August and we were here in late July (26/27th, 2008) when it also had a food-from-around-the-world festival (an annual event).
Similar to the food stands which feature during the Girona Religious music festival, there's food from such far-flung places like Korea and Tibet! with prices around 3-4€ per portion. It was very well attended, open till late as with many such events, and there were also many craft stalls nearby.
It also has a Mediterranean Cultural Centre called Can Quintana. www.torroella.org/canquintana
Sant Feliu de Guixols
More of a real working town than just a beach resort, it has a kind of faded, lost-granduer look about it which adds to it's charm. Explore the town behind the sea-front promenade where you'll find the marketplace and plenty of places to eat.
The rambla, a wide avenue that runs at right angles form the seafront has one notable restaurant where we had an excellent meal, called El Dorado. We also came here one very sunny but windy day in March 2007 and many of the roads had been dug up, I presumed they would finish in time for the summer season! If your'e living or staying in Girona this is probably the nearest coastal resort to drive to in terms of driving-time, at about 25- 30 mins.
During the summer there's a small pontoon anchored just off the beach with a slide that people swim to and a few childrens attractions and rides along the promenade which opens in the the evenings. It also has a toy museum (Tomas Pla Collection) with over 2,500 toys dating from 1860 to 1960, most of Spanish origin, Rambla Vidal 48-50 Te. 972 822 249.
Tourist Information, Placa del Mercat 28, Tel: 972 820 051 www.guixols.net
Santa Cristina d'Aro
Just a few kms. inland from St. Feliu this small, affluent place has expanded in recent years, and has a few 'urbanizations' spread out behind the town and up the hillsides, stretching to Castell d'Aro, next door. It has a second-hand market on the first Sunday of the month. If your'e here try and visit Romanya de la Selva which is just several kms. above Sta. Cristina itself. The 'd'Aro' bit comes from the nearby river d'Aro.
St. Antoni de Calonge
This sea-side town adjacent to Palamos has a nice, warm atmosphere but feels more of a holiday place than a working coastal town like Palamos, just up the road. Indeed, you can stroll along the beach-front from here to Palamos (15-20 mins) and even all the way to Playa d'Aro (1hr 45) in the opposite direction.
Follow the coastal road north past Platja de Aro and take the turning off for Calonge (which is slightly inland) and then follow the signs for the coastal town of St Antoni de Calonge. Very much a popular summer destination for local Catalans, who have second homes here. It has a wide, long beach with paths for both walkers and cyclists. Walk for about 2 kms. north along this path and you'll reach Palamos, the next coastal town. www.calonge.net
Platja d' Aro
Empty beach (OK it's
October!)
In between Palamos and St Antoni de Calonge Playa de Aro is another favourite destination for package tourists. It has a nice long. sandy beach and plenty of hotels, bars and cafes along its sea-front. It's also a popular place for Girona locals to visit on a Sunday as most of the shops here are open, in contrast to Girona where they're all shut. We had the beach to ourselves when we visited once in mid-October for its annual beer festival.
It also holds an unmissable annual Carnival in late January-early February (2008 dates, 26/01 to 6/02). See the 'more Festivals' page. www.platjadaro.com Very nearby is the Les Gavarres natural park area and a stunning golf course atop a residential area called Mas Nou. Just follow the road signs for Golf d'Aro, the road is quite steep for a good few kms. but once you get to the top there are some stunning views.
Palamos
A beach resort as well as an important regional fishing port and working town, the harbour area with its fishing boats and yachts seperates the beach area with its clean, fine sand and not too packed, so another good one for families with kids, as we've been here a few times with ours. There's a coastal footpath which takes you into St. Antoni d'Calonge, which makes for a nice 30 min. stroll.
While the modern, residential parts of Palamos behind the seafront aren't that attractive, it's old town is better and an enjoyable place to walk around on summer evenings, checking out which fish restaurant to eat in! Summer-time evenings the seafront promenade nearest the harbour has a small arts and crafts market.
One day in August we tried a boat trip on an old sailing vessel which you can book inside the fishing museum. It departs from the port area, takes you out to sea a short way, hugging the coast and lasted about an hour but all in Catalan! P.s No lifejackets were issued.
The Fishing Museum is open from Sunday to Monday 11am-9pm, 3€ to enter and also offers guided tours from 5pm-6.30pm (Monday's in English). www.museudelapesca.org & www.palamos.org/turisme/index_en.htm
Calella de Palafrugell
Head for the inland town of Palafrugell and then follow the signs for Calella.This is one of our top favourites and has buckets of charm, with five small beaches or coves and a botanical garden at Cap Roig (where they also host an annual, summer music festival with many famous national and international artists). We keep coming back here as it's one of our favourite beach places, and to one of these coves you have to walk down some stone steps to get to a small beach. It's got a restaurant directly facing the beach, another good spot to have your lunch or a drink while the kids play in the sand within eye-shot. We had the paella, very nice but make sure you order your food between 1-3pm.
Summer-time it gets busy here, in the evenings people promenade around town and I got the impression it had more Spanish visitors than your usual English/ German mix of tourists (that probably go to larger places like Estartit and L'Escala). The houses and apartment blocks are all low rise and it has the usual mix of touristy shops, restaurants, bars, and a few Art galleries near the beach.
There's a tourist 'road train' that leaves from here, which takes you up to the lighthouse (faro) which has wondeful views of Calella and some nice coastal footpaths that should be sign-posted.
www.palafrugell.net / Jardi Botanic de Cap Roig : tel 972 614 582
I've also been here in December to have lunch, as there are still a couple of places open here but walking around the town was strange as it felt like a ghost-town with just no-one around!
Palafrugell town.
The town itself is probably not much to write-about but it does host a particularly good early summer carnival (In 2007 it was the 3rd of June) which is well worth seeing, and it has a good Sunday provisions market. See our Festival pages for more info.
Head for Palafrugell and then pick up the signs for Llafranc and Tamariu which are both nearby resorts with nice small beaches and some good sea food restaurants, we had a very nice lunch here once, with fresh sardines! Llafranc has some low-rise hotels along its short seafront making it an ideal place for a short stay or day visit being just 45 mins drive from Girona. Parking here during the summer can be difficult because of the dramatic increase in visitors.
L'Escala
One coastal resort with a reputation for good fish restaurants, that's heaving with tourists during the summer months. It's got many campsites, and many holiday-villa and apartment owners. Simply getting into or out-of the town can takes ages because of the amount of traffic. Also, if you have a car take a drive up Montgo to the car-park at the top for some great views. We visited once, out of season in late September and the contrast could'nt be more different-very quiet and empty!
Nearby, north of the town are some Greco-Roman ruins at Empurias an important historical site. www.lescala.org
Llanca
One of the Costa Brava's most northerly sea-side towns it has an un-commercial feel to it and a number of small coves with dark sand. We walked along one its coastal paths in January and yes, the sun was shining but a bit windy as the area here does get the 'traumantana' winds. It has some great views across to its neighbour Port de la Selva. A small fishing port cum marina has daily fish auctions that I'm told are good to watch! Of course that means there's got to be a few good fish restaurants, Los Pescadors (The Fishermen) near the port is supposed to be good. We took the train from Girona, about a 40 minute journey. www.llanca.cat
Besalu
Not that far from Girona and near Banyoles, It's the stunningly well preserved 11th C. fortified bridge over the river Fluvia that greets you before you cross over into this small village full of stone houses and medieval charm. It also has the rarely seen remains of a Jewish ritual bath house or Mikwah (key to enter is available) two Romanesque churches and a 12th C. monastery.
Every year over one weekend (see photo above) in early September (we went 03/09/06) it turns back into 'Besalu Medieval' a two day festival of medieval re-enactments, displays and music of that period. Walk amongst inhabitants dressed in period dress and sample local produce from some of the food stalls. Entry price is 3€ (2006) for adults, but it gets very crowded with visitors, plus allow some time to park your car. There's a large parking area just outside the village plus and an information point just before you cross the bridge. www.besalu.cat
Peralada
This medieval, picturesque village north east of Figueres has a castle, a casino and a rather nice five-star hotel nearby with a golf course (Hotel Golf Peralada). It's well worth spending an afternoon walking around its streets and alleyways. All the main points to see are adequately signposted. Monday when I visited seemed to be a bad day to eat as many places were closed at lunchtime!
Peralada wine's are quite good and it's also well known for hosting an annual musical concert held in July in the grounds of the castle. www.peralada.org
The Mountains
Leave Girona and head for the hills. Broadly speaking head in a north-westerly direction to experience the contrasting landscape. Even in the summer if you'll notice the contrast in temperatures between the coast and the lower Pyrenees. One September we moved from Estartit on the coast and stayed in a converted mill near Olot, down a long dirt-track road and set amongst pine forests. Here the evenings were much cooler and damper.
Santa Pau
A small pretty, picturesque, hillside village near Olot. This natural park area known as Garrotxa is full of old, former volcanoes.You can get here by taking the main road from Girona to Olot going through a few tunnels or take a more shorter, scenic, winding route from Banyoles. It would make a pleasant day trip, walking around it's old, cobbled streets and courtyards and there are some great countryside views around. This old 12thC village is known for its local beans and hosts an annual festival every February. There are walking routes,(below) which are sign-posted in the village, and a small tourist office. www.santapau.com (Spanish/Catalan).
Olot
Olot is a prosperous Catalan town with a rich cultural history and the capital of the Garrotxa region. Its natural park area has many extinct volcanic cones within it. Back in 2001 we followed signs for one that is near to the town and walked up with our two young kids. Some great views await you when you reach the top and the town itself has many fashionable shops and squares. Not so much a place in which to stay in but perhaps include as a day-trip. www.olot.org (in Catalan only)
It has a good xmas market (mercat de nadal) 6-8 Dec.
If you're a fan of Monastery's then nearby Sant Joan de les Abadesses has a very good example (entrance fee applies).
Oficina Municipal de Turismo de Olot
Hospici, 8, 17800 Olot (Girona) Teléfono: 972 260 141 / 2 Fax: 972 271 900 E-mail: turisme@olot.org
Camprodon
Near to Olot, we visited this small mountain town once in late September and it was very quiet but things get busier during the winter ski-ing months because of its proximity to ski resorts like Setcases, just up the road. However, it does also have a particularly nice 15th C bridge with a defensive tower. We were here again on a sunny Sunday in January 2008 and there seemed to be many visitors strolling around, sitting in outdoor cafes or enjoying the many fine restaurants. www.ajcamprodon.com
Vall De Nuira. (See a visitor review of this place on our Reviews page).
A popular winter/Summer weekend destination amongst Catalans. Access to this small, valley resort is solely by train or the Cremallera (zip train) as its called, which you can catch from a choice of three stations below. We caught ours from the station at Ribes-Vila in the tiny mountain town of Rebes de Freser. This electric train winds its way up the mountain and after almost 40 minutes signals its arrival at Vall de Nuria by blowing its whistle! www.valldenuria.cat
It has a few ski-runs and a cable car which makes it a popular place for day-skiers in winter. Summertime activities include horse and pony rides, boating on the lake and rambling along sign-posted paths.
Great for a day-out, it takes about 90 minutes to drive from Girona, up through Olot and Ripoll. Our train tickets for 2 adults and 2 kids were 60€.
Lloret de Mar
I'd heard many things about this overbuilt, package-tourist resort that was the Costa Brava's first attempt at attracting us Brits to a fortnight of warm English beer, greasy fry-up's and Euro-pop being bashed out all night long. It's very built-up with hotels and apartment blocks and a huge contrast to other nearby, much nicer places. I've not stayed here, just stopped one-time to get some petrol and another time spent a Saturday evening visiting friends which was enough for me!. I read this apt comment elsewhere "Lloret de Mar is best seen at 30km. per hour on your way to Tossa de Mar." That I'm afraid explains it all.
Lloret de Mar tourist office.
Plaza de la Vila, 1, 17310 Lloret de Mar, Teléfono: 972 364 735 Fax: 972 360 540 E-mail: lloret-turisme@lloret.org
Pals
A well preserved, walled medieval town really worth a visit that does attract a lot of summer tourists. When visiting Pals itself there are parking areas on the edge of town. We've been here two or three times and love just walking around its narrow streets, lined with restored fine buildings and enjoying a drink or snack in an outdoor bar. www.pals.es
You'll find many vantage points where you can look across miles of surrounding, lush Catalan countryside. Apart from the town walls it's also noted for its church of Sant Pere and the Casa Museu de la Pruna. It has a weekly market on Tuesdays and a second-hand market every Saturday in Pl. Catalunya 10-2.
Friends have also told me that if your'e here at Christmas time the town holds a recreation of Christ's story over a few days including Xmas eve and beyond, which is highly recommended. www.pessebreviventpals.es.tl/
Update Jan.09 We finally managed to go on Jan.4th 09 and were very impressed by what we saw, well worth doing.
There are also signs for Pals beach (Platja de Pals) which is just a few kilometres away to the east. The easily accessable beach is long, sandy with a life-guard station, a couple of beach bars, toilets and outdoor showers. I noticed that the sea-water level became deep quite quickly. Plentiful parking behind the beach area, 1.50€ all day with numerous camping and caravan sites, restaurants and shops as you go back up towards Pals town.
La Bisbal
Just before you get to Pals you'll pass through this large town, famous for its ceramic and clay products and the principal town for this region. Worth a stop to stroll and browse around its many shops. www.labisbal.cat
Peratallada
Another pretty, well preserved village with an old church worthy of a visit, full of stone houses near to La Bisbal. We had a stroll through the narrow streets one pleasant, sunny afternoon and ate lunch outside. The car parking is on the outskirts so parking outside the village boundaries is best. It's got a few 'arty type' shops, a couple of hotels and hostel/B&B places, and a fair number of restaurants to cater for the tourist visitors. It hosts an annual wine/xmas fair in early December.
Begur
A coastal resort with a small beach area and a hilltop village above and the way to a few chic-places like Aiguafreda and Fornells. Many homes here are built into the side of the hills and there's some spectacular views around so worth a visit. When you approach Pals you'll see signs for Begur. www.begur.org There are also a couple of very exclusive, up-market places near here called Sa Riera and La Tuna.
Ripoll
The provincial town of the Ripolles region. If you're travelling in this direction, up towards the hills then it's all but worth a brief stop as its a bit industrial, although it's Monastery is its most important monument. We spent a few hours here just walking around and I remember visiting some nice cake shops! Neraby, there's the town of Ribes de Freser (worth a stroll) which is one place where you can catch the Cremallera (zip) train up to Vall de Nuria.
Cadaques
One of the nicest Costa Brava resorts that we have been to and well worth the drive up a long winding road and then down again, to get there. The little town has a real bohemian-chic feel with its white painted houses, and its long been a popular place for artists hence a lot of galleries.
The view is dominated by the church of Santa Maria. We didn't find the beachy areas of which there a few dotted around, that big or that sandy and so we sat amongst the small fishing boats. Nearby is Portlligat where the famous Catalan artist Salvador Dali lived for a time, and the Cap de Creus nature park.
During every August it hosts an international music festival (2008 dates, 02-08th) www.festivalcadaques.cat
Romanya de la Selva
Situated about 6 kms above Santa Cristina d'Aro is a small village with a 10th C. church and a cultural/artistic venue called El Refugi. It's also where we've had one of the nicest restaurant meals since living here, at a place called Can Roquet. We had a long, leisurely lunch one Saturday in July, sitting outside. The views of the surrounding, wooded hills are wonderful from its terrace and the internal decoration is also worth seeing. A bit on the expensive side, our lunch for four cost about 150 €, evening diners ought to make a booking. www.canroquet.com Or, try the restaurant next to it called Les Gavarres.
Verges
It may just be another small Catalan village which you pass through on the way to the coast to places like L'Escala and Estartit but, on the evening of Easter Monday locals dress up as skeletons and other scary characters to perform the 'dansa macabra' or death march. I've not seen it and highly recommend it. Starts around 9-10pm, but the procession itself can be as late as midnight.
Figueres
A place more famous for its Dali Museum (Museu Dali). We tried to visit this place but the queues were enormous, so we've left it for another day. Instead, we went inside the toy museum nearby (see Girona Museums page).
Figueres tourist office, Plaza del Sol, s/n
17600 Figueres (Girona) Teléfono: 972 503 155 Fax: 972 673 166 E- mail: turisme@figueres.org
Castle San Miquel, Els Angeles, nr. Girona.
Head out of Girona going in a southerly direction, past the university area, heading towards Celra and pick up the signs for Els Angeles. The road meanders upwards for a few kilometres and past a couple of restaurants like Can Pol (see review under our Restaurants pages) and then becomes more of an unmade road so take care. When you finally arrive at the ruins there is parking space, and its also a popular mountain biking route.
The views are amazing, and by climbing up the iron staircase inside the tower (Mirador)you can see Girona below and as far as Banyoles to the north.